Way Modern Chinois is a restaurant that specializes in contemporary Chinese cuisine set in a classy environment, making it a fine dining choice. And after looking up the word “chinois” only I realize that it’s the French word for Chinese. Well you learn something new everyday!
Most of the dishes offered in their menu are not new or foreign but prepared with a modern and exquisite twist. Imagine truffle roast duck and waterless chicken soup – don’t they just arouse your imagination?
But we were here to sample the latest offerings in their lunch dim sum menu. The first dim sum to arrive was the Skinless XLB priced at RM6 for a pop. The price might seem off-putting but understandable once you know the tedious amount of work and time involved to make it.
Molecular gastronomy is applied to this traditional dim sum where the soup and meat filling are turned into a bite sized jelly-like sphere while the vinegar and ginger dip is liquefied and turned into foam.
Sitting on top of the dim sum is the skin, which they mixed with squid ink then flattened into an oval shape. Designed to be enjoyed at one go, the Skinless XLB is as good as any Xiao Long Bao you’d get anywhere, but with an absolutely different texture.
Crispy Dumpling with Wasabi Mayo @ RM15. For me, this is quite the perfect spring roll. The wrappers are delightfully thin and crispy yet strong enough to hold the filling confidently without breaking into pieces with each bite.
Way’s take on the classic Char Siew Bao @ RM9 is to simply mix coriander into the bun’s dough for a subtle minty taste. It also helps that the char siew chicken is sufficiently flavourful with a fine gooey texture. Pretty darn good for a supposedly pork-based recipe.
The Prawn Dumpling with X.O. @ RM16 is great stuff and one of the must-tries here. The homemade X.O. sauce injected depths of flavour to the dim sum and made it extra savory with a touch of spiciness.
Crab Roe Dumpling @ RM19 – golden skinned with each containing a succulent filling of prawn and crab roe.
Though common, the Crispy Bean Curd Skin Roll @ RM17 was well prepared and they did not taste greasy at all (oil was hot enough) despite being a deep fried item. The outside edges were crispy while the inside stayed juicy – just like how they are meant to be.
Another variant of XLB available here is the Truffle Crab Soup Dumpling @ RM14. Sporting a luscious black skin, these dumplings are filled with aromatic soup and not a single drop of it was wasted.
Loaded with crab claw flesh and prawn, you could expect these Crab Claw Dumpling @ RM15 to be pleasantly rich in seafood flavour with a firm yet tender texture. They simply hook you in immediately at the first taste.
They might be a tad chewy for our liking but the cleverly made X.O. sauce made up for the Pan Fried Radish Cake. I think this is the same delicious sauce that was used on the prawn dumpling earlier.
The Sticky Rice Lamb Siew Mai‘s presentation sure is interesting. For those who don’t really fancy lamb, you might find the gameyness of the steamed meat balls slightly overwhelming.
As for lamb lovers like me, I’d want my lamb to taste like lamb so I am quite happy with it. This dish must enjoyed while it’s still hot before the sticky rice turns hard after it cools down. RM19 for 3 pcs.
After a string of delectable items, here are some that we (personally) think could be improved further. The Lotus Leaf Steam Sticky Rice with Duck @ RM10 tastes good overall with a commendable portion size but it certainly could use more ingredients, say maybe more duck meat.
The idea might be a good one but ultimately the Fish & Chips @ RM16 falls flat due to the mushy consistency.
There’s nothing not to be liked about the fluffy yet crispy exterior on these nest-like croquettes. Alas, the filling in the Seafood Curry Nest @ RM13 did not resemble the curry taste we were expecting; it’s more like a sweet Japanese curry.
Although not everything we had was amazing, the overall experience was still a positive one with a couple of good surprises especially the memorable Skinless XLB and Prawn Dumpling with X.O. Price wise, you’ll have to fork out more for the nice and classy décor – it’s a fine dining restaurant after all.
If you are not ready to splurge, you can give their weekday “Let’s Do Lunch Dim Sum Set” @ RM29++ per pax a try first. So do check it out on their Facebook page for the details.
Jalan Changkat Semantan
50490 Damansara Heights KL
Tel: 03-2095 1118
Business hours: Mon – Sat (12pm – 3pm, 6pm – 10.30pm) Closed on Sundays